The basic styles of Korean dress were essentially established during the 1st-7th century, otherwise known as the three kingdom's period. Since then, the silhouette has changed very little. With a deep connection to Korean history and cultural aesthetics, each aspect of the dress is important and tells the story of the Korean people.

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History of the Silhouette

Artifacts from the Three Kingdom period show the early aspects of hanbok, which can be divided into three parts of dress. 

   The first part is the baji or pants, and jeogori or jackets. During this time, the jackets were long, reaching the hipline, and were tied around the waist. It had a straight neckband and narrow sleeve with trimmed hem and cuffs. These pieces were worn by both men and women. 

   The second part was the chima or skirt, which was worn by both men and women, and was not a common as it would become in later centuries. It was mostly worn in southern Korea, but women still preferred to were pants over the skirt outside of ceremonial times. 

   The third division was the po or coat, which was again worn by both men and women over either a jacket and pants or a jacket and skirt. It had a similar shape to the jacket but with wider sleeves. It was mostly worn by the upper class. The costume was finished with a hat that was sometimes decorated with feathers.  

   According to "Traditional Korean Costume" by lee Kyung Jay, Hong NaYoung, and Chang Sook Hwan, over the next 1000 years four major changes occurred to the Korean parts of dress that lead to the characteristics of traditional hanbok we recognize today. The first occurred during the 7th and 9th centuries when "the Silla kingdom adopted the official China’s Tang dynasty (618—906) as early as AD 649, before it had unified the Three Kingdoms" (9). These styles of dress, including government officials wearing black caps and white coats for everyday wear, showed that Tang and Korean styles existed side by side. 

   The second came during the Goryeo kingdom (1259-1356) when Korea came under Mongol rule. With over a century of cross-cultural exchange, Mongol influence could be seen in even the king's and upper official's dress who adopted the manner of dress and hairstyles of the Mongol people. "The most conspicuous examples of this influence were a ceremonial cap (jjokduri), and a hair ribbon (doturakdaenggi) worn as wedding attire. A coat with pleats (cheollik), common during the Joseon period, was also introduced during Mongol rule. During this time, hanbok worn by rulers became more colorful and elaborate, while the general populace continued to wear more muted tones with fabrics made of hemp. 

   The third turning point came as the Mongols withdrew and a new dress system was ordered by King Wu in 1387. This new order demanded Korean officials should follow "the newly established Ming dynasty (1368-1644) that had replaced the Mongol Yuan
dynasty in China. Officials now wore the samo silk hat and the dannyeong coat that were worn in China, while their ranks were distinguished by the materials used in making their belts" (10). The gat, the large hat worn in Korea, also came from this time. Neo-Confucianism was also introduced in China during the Sung and Ming dynasties. This ideology would go on to shape the Joseon dynasty, and have profound effect on hanbok. Cotton was also introduced which changed the way clothes were made. 

   During the Joseon dynasty, several changes occurred, including "breast-ties and knotted buttons for fastening, and the attachment of a narrow white strip of cloth called a dongjeong, to the collar"(10). However, the largest change came during the mid to late Joseon time period when economic changes brought new wealth to Korea as well as a renaissance in thought called Silhak, or practical learning, and the creation of Hangeul, or the Korean alphabet. By the reigns of KingYoungjo (1724-76) and King Jeongjo (1776-1800) the style of hanbok was established. "The style that now evolved could be said to project a certain ‘dignity’ in men’s costume and ‘modesty’ in women’s, but both these Confucian concepts were sublimated in the aesthetics of dress"(11).

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Influence of Neo-Confucianism on Hanbok

   The guiding force of the new Joseon dynasty was Neo-Confucianism, which adhered to the principles of simplicity and austerity. This ideology is found in the basic form of the hanbok.  

   During this time, men sought to project an air of dignity. They refrained from being seen outside without a hat or proper attire. Women too covered their heads with an overcoat when they ventured from their homes. "Men wore many layers of undergarments, including jackets, loose pants and coats, all of which contributed to the wearer’s appearance of dignity and calmness"(11).

   Women also wore voluminous layers of skirts and covered their skin to adhere to the principle of modesty. These layers consisted of a pair of baggy pants  over three pairs of increasingly smaller pants, worn over a loin cloth. The skirt covered these pants with some upper class women wearing multiple layers of skirts for special occasions. A tighter jacket was worn under the outer jacket. This silhouette created an exaggerated silhouette that concealed the true figure of the woman. Instead the focus was on the aesthetic lines and details of the dress.   

   Towards the end of the Joseon period, social ethics began to change and more skin was shown. The practice of tying the skirt up to show the bloomers was the height of fashion, and eventually the pants that made up the undergarments were accepted as normal outerwear for women. 

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